Signs a wall is in trouble
Retaining walls usually fail slowly. Look for:
- Sand or soil leaking through joints, at the ends of the wall or from under the bottom course.
- Leaning or tilting, where the top of the wall is further out than the bottom.
- Bulging in the middle of a run.
- Cracks that are widening, stepped through blocks, or at the base of posts.
- Gaps opening between the top of the wall and the ground or paving behind it.
- Sinking lawn or paving behind the wall.
- Water pooling behind the wall or seeping through the face long after rain.
- Rust on steel posts, particularly at ground level.
Any one of these on its own may not be urgent. Several together, or one that is getting worse, means the wall should be assessed soon.
Why walls fail around Mandurah
Across the Peel, the same handful of causes come up again and again.
Water. Walls built without drainage, or with drainage that has silted up, hold back wet soil every winter. Wet soil is heavier and pushes harder. In the clay-loams towards Pinjarra this effect is stronger, but even on sand, constant reticulation along the top of a wall adds up.
Sand washing out. Without fabric behind the wall, fine sand moves through joints every time water flows through. Over years the ground behind is undermined and the wall loses support.
Shallow or missing footings. Older limestone walls in particular were sometimes laid straight onto sand, with no compacted base or concrete footing.
Added load. A wall designed for a garden bed is not designed for a driveway, a shed slab or a spa. Load added after the wall was built is a common cause of leaning.
Tree roots. Roots growing behind or under a wall can lift blocks and crack footings.
Corrosion and rot. Steel posts in salt-affected or permanently damp ground, and timber walls past their useful life.
Repair or rebuild?
A contractor will usually weigh up:
- How much of the wall is affected. A short section at one end may be re-laid on its own; a wall that is moving along its whole length usually needs to come down.
- Whether the footing is sound. If the footing is the problem, re-laying blocks on top of it will not last.
- Whether the cause can be fixed without taking the wall down, for example by clearing an outlet or redirecting reticulation.
- The material. Limestone and segmental block can often be taken down and re-laid. Rotted timber is replaced. Concrete sleeper walls with sound sleepers may only need new posts.
- Height and risk. Taller walls, and walls near buildings or boundaries, may need an engineer's input before repair.
Expect the quote to explain the choice, not just give a total.
What a typical repair involves
- Make the area safe and protect anything below the wall.
- Take down the affected section, stacking reusable blocks or sleepers.
- Excavate behind the wall to expose the drainage zone.
- Repair or replace the footing.
- Lay fabric, drainage pipe and drainage gravel.
- Rebuild the wall in courses with the correct set-back.
- Backfill in compacted layers and reinstate the surface.
Rebuilding with a different material
A failing wall is a good moment to ask whether the same material is still the right one. Old timber walls are often replaced with concrete sleepers. A short, tall limestone wall might be better rebuilt as an engineered block wall. A long, low wall that has only failed through lack of fabric may simply be re-laid in limestone.
Permits for repairs
Like-for-like repair of a short section of a low wall is often straightforward, but rebuilding a significant wall, increasing its height or changing its type may need a building permit. The City of Mandurah and the Shire of Murray can confirm what applies. Boundary walls bring in the neighbour as well, so keep them informed.
Getting it looked at
Send photos of both faces of the wall and the ground above and below it, and call (08) 9515 3332 or use the form below. If you are on a canal or near the estuary, read the sandy and canal-side blocks guide as well.